Posted by Emil – May 16, 2009
My first open water dive. I stare at the immensity of the Sea of Cortez and my stomach is full of butterflies. I think I am nervous and very.
My diving knowledge, limited to a mask and a snorkel, definitely makes you understand why I am unsure about this. I know diving is a challenge and if I skip on this one, I might regret it. Specially knowing that I am in Cabo Pulmo, the only hard tropical reef in North America. The southern most unbelievable underwater treasure of the Baja Peninsula.
Cabo Pulmo is an unmatched oceanic refuge that functions like a breathing organism, cycling life continuously. Schools of thousands of fish, mollusks, corals and many incredible unknown creatures are endemic to this place. Humpback whales, whale sharks, hammerheads, tigers and silver tip sharks are only a few examples of the many species that inhabit this incredible reef. 
I have to give it a try.
After staring at my instructors directions on how to go about diving, something is clear in my mind: Just relax and breath deeply, it is all meditation. The first try, will be a test. I will be carefully studied to see my behavior underwater and act fast in case my mermaid instincts come back to me and I try to give myself away to the deep blue. Henri will then decided if I need more serious advice about how to behave underwater.
I load the heavy equipment on my back and finish struggling with my wet suit that has started to boil under an unforgiving desert sun. I hold my mask against my head and I leave the boat backwards, divers style. Splashes, frantic bubbles, confusion. A refreshing flow of cool water calms my overheated body. Then, everything is silence. Aquatic silence.
My body enters a suspended mode and my heartbeats are almost unexistent. You are submerged in a slow-motion kingdom where gravity doesn’t play a role. When myriads of silver fish let you get lost inside their immensity, you become one with this element. I believe it is better than flying.
After the second immersion I am sold to the idea of becoming a regular underwater visitor, and eventually turn into a certified one. This way, Florian can count on me while photographing a place that can quickly erase your memory of your terrestrial roots. Someone has to remind him that we humans have to return to the world above for air.
I’ve been under the sea.
Posted by Emil – April 18, 2009
Staring at the enchanting waters surrounding Espiritu Santo Island, I keep thinking what might be awaiting under its blueish surface. Even though is a windy day and the waters start to build up, we jump in the panga that will bring us to the island. The ride is wild and we are soaked and salted all the way through. We finally reach calmer waters on the easter side of the island, and we can better appreciate the interesting geological features, characteristic of Espiritu Santo Island
A unique site with the most intact ecosystem in the region, withholding several endemic species, including the blacktailed jack rabbit, five species of marine turtles, resident sea lions, migratory and regional bird species and a ring-tailed nocturnal mammal famous for visiting kayakers at night. For its relevance as one of the most ecologically significant islands in the Sea of Cortez, we are here to document a place that not very long ago, was almost sold to private investors for housing and tourist development. Its designation as a protected area by the Mexican government, has allowed the process of slow recovery for a terrestrial and marine ecosystems heavily impacted by unregulated fishing and habitat destruction from tourism.
After gliding over the turquoise waters of its numerous “ensenadas” and exploring some of its hidden coves, we finally arrive to our most awaited destination: La Lobera. A medium size rockery found north of the island that shelters a Californian sea lion colony year round.
As we get closer, the water becomes clearer and shallower. I can see giant rocks beneath the surface, surrounded by pending jewels: tiny colorful fish feeding on the coral beds. Once in a while with unexpected elegance, a golden silhouette spins gracefully under my hanging feet. I want to submerge, fill my senses with that marine joy happening below.
I am finally able to fit in my wet suit and finish struggling with the mask and my long hair. Soon the cold water of the Sea of Cortez runs down my spine. It awakes me with a sudden heart beat, urging me to get a deep breath.
When I plunge my eyes under the water, the cold goes away. Underneath, there is a world beyond my imagination. Huge rocks fill the area all adorned with fish and corals of all sizes. Down, below the rocks, I discover a pair of inquisitive glowing eyes: a group of sea lions hiding underneath the rocks, looking at me.
I miss the words to describe what an incredible feeling it is to have a close encounter with sea lions under the water. Playful and full of curiosity, they approach carefully to inspect you thoroughly. If you turn and dive with quick moves, they get excited and follow you closer to see what might be happening next.
Once in a while I stay still and contemplate in awe their play. Twists, turns and swirls. Ballerinas of the sea, dancing an harmonious underwater performance.
I once belonged to the city, yesterday I fell in love with the wildness of the mountains. Today, if I continue to submerge in the waters of this fascinating ocean, I might soon start growing scales and turn into a mermaid.
Posted by Emil – April 7, 2009
During the first expeditions to the southern part of the B2B region, Florian concentrated on the most important stop-overs for whales in southern Baja California. The peninsula offers only few protected areas where the Grey Whale can find calm waters to give birth and feed its young before returning to the north.
Ojo de Liebre, San Ignacio and Magdalena Bay are the most important calving lagoons for grey whales in the Baja Peninsula, and documenting them in these places was key to understand the importance of maintaing the sanctuaries protected. Magdalena Bay is famous for its large complex system of mangroves that shelters large stocks of fish, many resident and migratory birds and offers a unique sanctuary for hundreds of grey whales.
And it is here where only few centuries ago Grey Whales were slaughtered without mercy, and were brought to the brink of extinction.
The grey whale has a along story of survival, it represents an icon of hope for the future of other whale populations. It is difficult to believe that today, one can glide over the waters of Magdalena Bay and have close encounters with this enigmatic, gentle creatures.
One early morning, right before sunrise, Florian rides on a panga and goes searching for whales. Soon he realizes, it was his lucky day. A calm windless morning welcomes him over the water as they approach the mouth of the bay. There, he tells me, blows of many whales fill the horizon in a unique harmony of silence and blow.
They turned off the engines, drifting quietly, awaiting for the whales. And just like that, after a short period of time the whales swam toward the boat. One whale soon became three… and more! Up to six whales were counted surrounding the panga. With an inquisitive behavior that makes of these mammals the most sociable and curious of all, the whales went gliding sideways right below the boat to take a closer look. Swinging their flukes slowly, they approach the boat with care.
Once called “devilish” because of their fierce behavior while protecting their young during the massive hunting of the 1800′s, it is astounding that today this incredible being is able to forget -or shall I say, forgive- our terrible behavior and reward us once again with their trust.
There are many ecological issues that could threaten the future of Magdalena Bay, thus jeopardizing the future of the whales. The most concerning one is the large scale housing development the peninsula has experienced in the last decade. If it continues to grow at today’s rate, the bay might be facing serious ecological problems and whales could be confronting difficult challenges to survive. 
Visions of the