Posted by Emil – April 18, 2009
Staring at the enchanting waters surrounding Espiritu Santo Island, I keep thinking what might be awaiting under its blueish surface. Even though is a windy day and the waters start to build up, we jump in the panga that will bring us to the island. The ride is wild and we are soaked and salted all the way through. We finally reach calmer waters on the easter side of the island, and we can better appreciate the interesting geological features, characteristic of Espiritu Santo Island
A unique site with the most intact ecosystem in the region, withholding several endemic species, including the blacktailed jack rabbit, five species of marine turtles, resident sea lions, migratory and regional bird species and a ring-tailed nocturnal mammal famous for visiting kayakers at night. For its relevance as one of the most ecologically significant islands in the Sea of Cortez, we are here to document a place that not very long ago, was almost sold to private investors for housing and tourist development. Its designation as a protected area by the Mexican government, has allowed the process of slow recovery for a terrestrial and marine ecosystems heavily impacted by unregulated fishing and habitat destruction from tourism.
After gliding over the turquoise waters of its numerous “ensenadas” and exploring some of its hidden coves, we finally arrive to our most awaited destination: La Lobera. A medium size rockery found north of the island that shelters a Californian sea lion colony year round.
As we get closer, the water becomes clearer and shallower. I can see giant rocks beneath the surface, surrounded by pending jewels: tiny colorful fish feeding on the coral beds. Once in a while with unexpected elegance, a golden silhouette spins gracefully under my hanging feet. I want to submerge, fill my senses with that marine joy happening below.
I am finally able to fit in my wet suit and finish struggling with the mask and my long hair. Soon the cold water of the Sea of Cortez runs down my spine. It awakes me with a sudden heart beat, urging me to get a deep breath.
When I plunge my eyes under the water, the cold goes away. Underneath, there is a world beyond my imagination. Huge rocks fill the area all adorned with fish and corals of all sizes. Down, below the rocks, I discover a pair of inquisitive glowing eyes: a group of sea lions hiding underneath the rocks, looking at me.
I miss the words to describe what an incredible feeling it is to have a close encounter with sea lions under the water. Playful and full of curiosity, they approach carefully to inspect you thoroughly. If you turn and dive with quick moves, they get excited and follow you closer to see what might be happening next.
Once in a while I stay still and contemplate in awe their play. Twists, turns and swirls. Ballerinas of the sea, dancing an harmonious underwater performance.
I once belonged to the city, yesterday I fell in love with the wildness of the mountains. Today, if I continue to submerge in the waters of this fascinating ocean, I might soon start growing scales and turn into a mermaid.
Posted by Emil – April 9, 2009
It is a windless day. Not a single breeze dares to disturb this enchanted late afternoon. Like a mercurial liquid, the glare of a lower sun blinds me when I glance over the water surface. It is one of our first journeys in the Sea of Cortez and we are nervous, anxious to see and discover.
Rudder tighten up, engines off, we stop to listen. Only the pure quietness of a still day rises the possibility of us finding a whale if it happens to be in the vicinity. We’ve searched with the binoculars, but haven’t found anything yet.
We’ve been here for a while, awaiting patiently. I am taken by the stillness of the place, hypnotized by the infinite blue of this waters and my imagination telling me what might be hidden beneath. Every slight movement over the water is carefully studied by the corner of my eyes.
And then, unexpectedly, like a volcanic eruption reaping the water apart, an immeasurable amount of air awakes me violently. Florian is nervous and we jump out of our place excited, shaky. It is a blue whale and she is few feet from the boat. Stepping into each other’s feet and hesitant as what to do, we stop for a moment to realize what we are truly contemplating. After few seconds of shock, Florian is finally able to find his camera.
The sun is setting, faster than we are used to. Here in the south the sun sets faster than in nordic lands, where we have spent more time.Running out of light and few minutes to enjoy the sight of a Blue, Florian needs to make fast decisions. A close up of the fluke is a most, but that is the last you will see of a whale before it disappears again.
Florian loves combining the subject within the landscape: the blow from the distance, with the mountains in the background would make a beautiful composition.
When the Blue Whale comes up to the surface to breath, they don’t stay very long, and when they disappear, it is for at least 20 to 30 minutes. We are here because we have seen blues before from the air traveling this waters. Only from that far one can truly appreciate their sheer size. Her body is three or four times longer than our boat. Yet, she gently swims by our boat like if we weren’t there.
I hear the rushing train of the camera, trying to capture this moment that escapes our eyes by the second. After this we will be anchoring at night, but been with a blue whale is worth everything.
I have seen the giant, I could not be happier with such a wonderful end of the day.
Posted by Emil – April 4, 2009
… and we did. We went on the water with Trust Me and we are now convinced she is a great vessel.
After traveling for months on a ’84 WV Westfalia with 24 feet of sitting space, one can understand why we are so excited about those extra 3 feet that makes our 27′ trimaran a cozy home. Many people think having a boat is a luxury. ” Trust Me” is far from that, with no restroom, no shower, a tiny living room without tables, and few feet for me to stand up and cook, her role is more important than providing comfort. She is a tool. With Trust Me we plan to reach wild remote areas within the Baja to Beaufort ecoregion, that need to be documented. With her ability of folding up and been trailerable, we can take her on the road and pretty much go anywhere.
With her great sailing features, her shallow draft, she is light and fast! If you have the sails in the right position and some breeze, she will go. It makes it all so much smoother, quite and environmentally friendly. Although I must accept that it has taken Florian many hours of kind words and encouragement to convince me that sailing is easy to learn and is a good thing.
“Trust Me” has great extra features, including, solar panels, a water-maker (that we are still in the process of fixing), a solar shower (bought in REI) and my favorite: Arthur, the autopilot. When Arthur is on charge, we can enjoy the freedom of not having to hold the tiller all the time allowing us to search for wildlife.
We have now sailed the Loreto National Marine Park, and are planning to sail all the way down to La Paz to over an important area: The Loreto/ Cabo corridor. While on the Loreto waters, we discovered many incredible things including a young Humpback Whale that gave us an spectacular show… but that’s another story.
Been on a boat makes you a lot more aware of your surroundings. You are in the constant look out for hazards and even with Arthur in charge, you still have to continuously keep an eye on the water. Floating logs, rocks under the water, sudden changes in the depths, gusty winds, currents, tides, etc. can easily combine and leave you with a nightmare experience.
Navigating the Sea of Cortez is more challenging because of the lack of good charts and the fact weather channels are nonexistent. You turn on the radio and soon you hear “Pablo! Pablo! Andale, contesta!”, then a whole Mexican style conversation unfolds on the most important channel for marine communication: Channel 16.
We’ve been really lucky with the weather, but you cannot avoid waking up in the middle of the night three or four times to check outside, to look at the GPs and check on the wind. Is the anchor ok or are we dragging? Is the wind picking up? What was that sound?
It is a restless adventure, a constant challenge, … and we are loving it!
Visions of the