For more than 22 hours, I have been sitting on a train traveling from Winnipeg to the far northern regions of Canada. I am destined for the 11,475-square-kilometer Wapusk National Park on Hudson Bay. Tomorrow morning, somewhere in the middle of its trek, the train will stop to drop me off in the tundra. There will be no train station, no shelter, and no lodge. I am a little nervous wondering if my guides will pick me up as planned... Filled with anticipation, I wake up early and am relieved when the conductor finally knocks on my cabin door. “It’s forty degrees below zero (F and C are the same at this temperature) out there. Dress warm!... On the way to camp, he tells me that the day before they came upon a female polar bear with her cub in tow. I am ecstatic and can barely wait to trek through the arctic snow...